How to Alter Pattern for Small Rib Cage
In the world of fashion and design, understanding how to alter patterns for different body types is crucial for creating clothing that fits comfortably and flatteringly. One common challenge faced by many designers and sewists is how to alter patterns for individuals with a small rib cage. A small rib cage can present unique fitting issues, as standard patterns may not provide the necessary room for comfort and movement. In this article, we will explore various techniques and tips on how to alter pattern for small rib cage, ensuring that your garments fit perfectly and look stunning.
First and foremost, it is essential to measure the rib cage accurately. To do this, measure the circumference of the rib cage at its narrowest point, typically just below the breasts for women and just below the armpits for men. This measurement will serve as the basis for making adjustments to your pattern.
One of the most common alterations for a small rib cage is to add width to the side seams. To achieve this, you can add a dart or spread the side seam allowance. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to do it:
1. Transfer the side seam notches from the original pattern to your tissue paper.
2. Draw a new side seam line that is wider than the original by the desired amount of ease. This can be anywhere from 1/2 inch to 1 inch, depending on the individual’s body size and the desired fit.
3. Connect the new side seam line to the armhole and waistline notches.
4. Cut along the new side seam line, creating a new side seam allowance.
5. Add the additional width to the side seam allowance by making a dart or spreading the fabric. This will create a gentle curve that accommodates the smaller rib cage.
Another effective alteration is to adjust the armhole depth. A deeper armhole can provide more room for the rib cage, while still maintaining a flattering fit. To alter the armhole depth, follow these steps:
1. Mark the armhole depth on the original pattern.
2. Draw a new armhole line that is deeper than the original by the desired amount of ease. This can be anywhere from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch.
3. Connect the new armhole line to the shoulder seam and side seam notches.
4. Cut along the new armhole line, creating a new armhole shape.
5. Adjust the armhole curve to ensure a smooth and comfortable fit.
Additionally, you may need to adjust the bust dart placement and length to accommodate a smaller rib cage. To do this, follow these steps:
1. Mark the bust dart on the original pattern.
2. Draw a new bust dart line that is closer to the center of the pattern, depending on the desired fit.
3. Adjust the bust dart length by adding or subtracting width from the dart’s base.
4. Connect the new bust dart line to the side seam and waistline notches.
5. Cut along the new bust dart line, creating a new bust dart shape.
In conclusion, altering patterns for small rib cage is essential for creating garments that fit comfortably and flatteringly. By following the techniques and tips outlined in this article, you can ensure that your designs cater to a wider range of body types and provide a perfect fit for your clients. Remember to measure accurately, make gradual adjustments, and test the fit before finalizing your pattern changes. Happy sewing!
