How to Alter Princess Seam Pattern
Altering a princess seam pattern is a common task for those who want to customize their clothing designs or make adjustments to existing patterns. The princess seam, also known as the princess line, is a diagonal seam that runs from the shoulder to the hem of a garment, providing a smooth and tailored fit. Whether you’re working with a commercial pattern or creating your own, here are some essential steps to follow when altering a princess seam pattern.
First, gather your materials. You’ll need the original pattern, a ruler, a pen or pencil, and a straightedge. If you’re making significant changes, it’s a good idea to have a tracing paper or a light-colored tissue paper on hand for creating a new pattern.
1. Identify the Seam Lines: Locate the princess seam lines on the pattern. These are typically marked with a dashed line and are indicated by a label such as “Princess Seam” or “PS.”
2. Determine the Adjustment: Decide what changes you want to make to the pattern. This could include adjusting the length, width, or the angle of the princess seam. Consider whether you want to make the garment smaller or larger, or if you’re correcting a specific fit issue.
3. Measure the Original Seam Angle: Use a ruler to measure the angle of the princess seam on the original pattern. This will help you maintain the same angle when you make your adjustments.
4. Mark the New Seam Line: Using your ruler and pen or pencil, draw a new princess seam line that reflects your desired changes. Ensure that the new line starts at the same point on the shoulder as the original seam and extends to the hem.
5. Adjust the Pattern Pieces: If you’re changing the length of the garment, you’ll need to adjust the pattern pieces accordingly. Extend or shorten the front and back pieces at the hemline to maintain the original angle of the princess seam. If you’re adjusting the width, you may need to redraw the side seams or add darts to the side of the garment.
6. Add Darts: If your alteration requires a change in the shape of the garment, you may need to add or remove darts. Darts are triangular sections of fabric that are sewn into the garment to provide a smooth fit. Mark the dart points and draw the dart lines on the pattern pieces.
7. Trace the Altered Pattern: Once you’re satisfied with the changes, trace the altered pattern onto your tracing paper or tissue paper. This new pattern will be used for cutting your fabric.
8. Test the Fit: Before cutting into your fabric, it’s essential to test the fit. You can do this by placing the pattern on a dress form or by making a muslin version of the garment. Make any necessary adjustments to the pattern before cutting your final fabric.
By following these steps, you can successfully alter a princess seam pattern to fit your specific needs. Remember that practice makes perfect, so don’t be afraid to experiment with different adjustments to find the perfect fit for your garments.
