How to Alter a Pattern for Plus Size: A Comprehensive Guide
Embarking on the journey of creating custom clothing for plus-size individuals can be both rewarding and challenging. Crafting garments that fit comfortably and flatter the body’s unique contours requires a keen eye for detail and a willingness to make adjustments to standard patterns. In this article, we will delve into the essential steps and techniques for altering a pattern to accommodate plus-size figures, ensuring a perfect fit and a flattering silhouette.
First and foremost, it is crucial to understand the specific needs of plus-size bodies. Unlike standard patterns, which are designed for a smaller frame, plus-size patterns must account for additional width, length, and sometimes, depth. To begin the alteration process, follow these steps:
1. Choose the Right Pattern: Select a pattern that is specifically designed for plus-size figures. Patterns labeled as “plus-size” or “full-figured” are tailored to accommodate the unique proportions of larger bodies.
2. Measure Your Body: Accurate measurements are the cornerstone of a successful alteration. Take precise measurements of your bust, waist, hip, and other relevant body parts. Compare these measurements to the pattern’s size chart to determine the appropriate starting size.
3. Identify the Necessary Adjustments: Common alterations for plus-size patterns include adding width to the bust, waist, and hip areas, lengthening the garment, and adjusting the neckline and armholes. Recognize which areas require modification based on your body measurements and the specific pattern you are working with.
4. Add Width to the Bust and Waist: To add width to the bust and waist, you can either spread the pattern at the side seams or cut additional pieces to attach to the existing pattern. Ensure that the added width is distributed evenly and that the darts are adjusted accordingly.
5. Lengthen the Garment: Lengthening a garment is a straightforward process that involves adding extra length to the pattern. Extend the pattern pieces along the lengthen or shorten line, and adjust the hem accordingly.
6. Adjust the Neckline and Armholes: Plus-size figures often require a deeper neckline and wider armholes for comfort and ease of movement. Adjust the neckline by increasing the depth and the armholes by adding width to the pattern pieces.
7. Test and Refine: After making the necessary alterations, test the pattern on a muslin or a fitting garment. Make any further adjustments as needed until the fit is perfect.
8. Cut and Sew: Once the pattern has been altered and tested, proceed with cutting and sewing the garment. Pay attention to the details, such as the dart placement, seam allowances, and hem finishes, to ensure a professional and polished result.
By following these steps, you can create custom clothing that fits comfortably and flatters plus-size figures. Remember that practice makes perfect, and with time and experience, you will become more adept at altering patterns to accommodate the unique needs of your clients or yourself. Happy sewing!
