How to Grade a Pattern
Grading a pattern is an essential skill for any sewist, as it ensures that the final garment fits perfectly and comfortably. Whether you’re creating a custom design or adapting a purchased pattern, understanding how to grade a pattern is crucial. In this article, we will explore the steps and techniques to effectively grade a pattern, ensuring a seamless sewing experience.
Understanding Pattern Grading
Pattern grading is the process of increasing or decreasing the size of a pattern piece to fit a specific size range. This process involves adjusting the pattern piece’s dimensions while maintaining the original shape and design. By grading a pattern, you can create a collection of size-specific pieces that can be easily assembled into a complete garment.
Identifying the Pattern’s Grade Points
The first step in grading a pattern is to identify the grade points. These are the points on the pattern where the size changes occur. Typically, grade points are marked on the pattern piece with a symbol, such as a triangle or a circle. By locating these points, you can begin the grading process.
Calculating the Grade Increment
Once you have identified the grade points, you need to calculate the grade increment. This is the amount by which each subsequent size increases or decreases. The grade increment is usually specified in the pattern instructions or can be determined based on the desired size range. For example, if you’re grading a pattern for sizes 0-18, you might use a grade increment of 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) per size.
Grading the Pattern Pieces
With the grade points and increment established, you can now grade the pattern pieces. Begin by drawing a line between the grade points on the pattern piece. Next, extend this line to the desired size using the grade increment. Repeat this process for all pattern pieces that need to be graded.
Maintaining Proportions
While grading a pattern, it’s crucial to maintain the original proportions of the piece. This means adjusting both the length and width of the pattern piece equally. By doing so, you ensure that the shape and design of the garment remain consistent throughout the grading process.
Adjusting the Grain Line
As you grade the pattern pieces, don’t forget to adjust the grain line. The grain line is the line that indicates the direction in which the fabric should be cut. When grading, make sure the grain line is aligned with the new dimensions of the pattern piece.
Testing the Graded Pattern
Once the pattern pieces have been graded, it’s essential to test the pattern before cutting into your fabric. By creating a toile or a test garment, you can check the fit and make any necessary adjustments to the pattern. This step ensures that your final garment will fit perfectly.
Conclusion
Grading a pattern is a fundamental skill that can greatly enhance your sewing experience. By following these steps and techniques, you can create size-specific pattern pieces that fit comfortably and flatter your body. Remember to maintain the original proportions, adjust the grain line, and test the pattern before cutting into your fabric. With practice, grading a pattern will become second nature, allowing you to create a wide range of garments with confidence.
