How to Draft Sewing Patterns: A Comprehensive Guide
Drafting sewing patterns is an essential skill for anyone looking to create custom clothing or alterations. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewer, understanding how to draft patterns can save you time and money by allowing you to create your own designs without relying on pre-made patterns. In this article, we’ll walk you through the step-by-step process of drafting sewing patterns, from gathering measurements to finalizing the pattern pieces.
Understanding the Basics
Before diving into the drafting process, it’s important to understand the basic components of a sewing pattern. A pattern typically consists of the following elements:
1. Front and back pieces: These are the main body pieces that form the front and back of the garment.
2. Sleeves: The sleeves are attached to the front and back pieces and are responsible for the armholes.
3. Facings and linings: These are used to finish the edges of the garment and provide additional structure.
4. Notches and markings: These are used to indicate where to cut, sew, or attach pieces together.
Step 1: Gather Measurements
The first step in drafting a sewing pattern is to gather the necessary measurements. This includes the following:
1. Body measurements: Chest, waist, hip, shoulder, and inseam lengths.
2. Arm measurements: Armhole depth, sleeve length, and circumference.
3. Head measurements: Head circumference and neck depth.
These measurements will help you determine the size and style of the garment you’re creating.
Step 2: Choose a Basic Block
A basic block is a standard pattern that serves as the foundation for all other patterns. It’s important to choose a basic block that fits your body type and the style of garment you’re creating. Common basic blocks include the bodice block, skirt block, and pants block.
Step 3: Adjust the Basic Block
Once you have your basic block, it’s time to adjust it to fit your body. This involves making changes to the length, width, and shape of the pattern pieces. Use the following guidelines to make adjustments:
1. Lengthen or shorten: Adjust the length of the pattern pieces to fit your body height.
2. Widthen or narrow: Adjust the width of the pattern pieces to fit your body shape.
3. Shape: Make changes to the curves and angles of the pattern pieces to achieve the desired fit.
Step 4: Draft Additional Pattern Pieces
After adjusting the basic block, you’ll need to draft additional pattern pieces for the garment. This includes the sleeves, facings, and linings. Follow these steps to draft these pieces:
1. Trace the basic block onto new paper.
2. Adjust the length, width, and shape of the new pieces as needed.
3. Add seam allowances and notches to the new pieces.
Step 5: Combine and Finalize the Pattern
Once all the pattern pieces are drafted, combine them and make any final adjustments. This may include aligning notches, checking for fit, and making any necessary alterations. Once you’re satisfied with the pattern, it’s ready to be used for sewing.
Conclusion
Drafting sewing patterns may seem daunting at first, but with practice and patience, you can create custom clothing that fits perfectly. By following these steps, you’ll be well on your way to mastering the art of pattern drafting. Happy sewing!
